Frequently Asked Questions
Also see FAQ's and Troubleshooting for
Hello, my name is Jamie. I run this website and answer all technical questions by telephone/email. I have tried to set out below the most frequently asked or common questions starting with the most frequent at the top. If a question that you would like to know the answer to is NOT on here please send me a quick email by pressing on the contact us link above.
Q. How easy are the Foam Kits to use ?
A. This is perhaps the most commonly asked question. The Foam Kits are very easy to use as long as you follow the instructions and guidelines. Use your common sense and respect the product. The advantage of using the Foam Kits is that you can do it yourself and save hundreds from paying an outside company. They have been designed for the DIY market, General Tradesman and Semi Professional, making them easy to use and understand. Full Operating Instructions are supplied with every set of cylinders.
- You can also watch video's by visiting our 'Video's Section'
Q. How much coverage will I get from the foam kits ?
A. The Touch n Foam 200 will cover approx. 15-18m2 at a thickness of 25mm or 200ft2 at a thickness of 1". The Larger or 600 Sized Tanks will cover approx. 50-55m2 at a thickness of 25mm or 600ft2 at a thickness of 1"
Q. Hi Jamie, What colours of foam are available?
A. Pale Yellow, White, Pink, Orange and Black
Q. What kind of coverage is expected from a 24oz can?
A. Approx. 35 litres
Q. Can the metal applicator gun be cleaned and if so how?
A. Yes, by using the Gun & Foam Cleaner Can
Q. Approximately what size is the aperture on the metal gun?
A. The Long Barrel is approx 200mm
Q. Is the application tip conical?
Q. Is there a low rise / fast curing 24oz can?
A. All Fast Curing, although we do a No-Warp Formula that doesn't exert pressure when expanding.
Q. I would like to insulate my loft with your product, to be sprayed onto the inside of the roof tiles. It's an average size 3 bed semi detached house. We have had a quote from Warmroof, but at £5500 it's just too much, would your product do the same job ?
A. Yes, this is where we come in. The foam is pretty much the same, it's just applied slightly different. They use a high pressure machine which is normally on a van and then long hoses go into your loft space and it is applied. What we have is a disposable, portable, pre-pressurised DIY system which has been designed for the DIY market. Just as long as you follow certain guidelines then there's no reason why you can't spray the foam yourself and save hundreds, if not thousands of pounds. If you do not feel confident in doing it then some customers hire a local tradesman or handyman. Normally customers buy 1 off the FP600 (large) size foam kits which costs £499.99 + £20.00 delivery. This sized kit should cover approx. 55m2 or 600ft2 at 25mm (1") thick, unless of course you spray thicker. Even if you bought 2 to get 50mm of foam that would still be nearly £4,500 saving !
Q. I like the idea of the Spray Foam and I see that it is a DIY Product but I would be interested in having an experienced Contractor/Sprayer to give me a price, do you know of anyone who could give me a quote?
A. Thanks for your question. Yes we have various contractors around the UK but the best one to contact would be 'Foam and Seal' on either 07818 835898 or 01268 698011, you can also visit their website www.foamandseal.co.uk
Q. Hi, Thank you for an informative and useful site. I have read the FAQ's and have a question relating to the "blind", infilling of a ceiling void to reduce noise and avoid taking the whole ceiling down. Recognising the dangers of over-filling could you hazard a guess at what intervals I'd need to drill holes and also whether doing this through the wooden floor above would be easier and less destructive than through the plasterboard below - is this contr-indicated? thanks for further elaboration on a difficult area. M
A. Although it is a little risky, it has and can be done with careful planning. I've never tried it myself before but speaking to past customers who have, each have used their own methods. The number of holes and the space between them would need to be figured out by yourself. But I would think a meter a part would do. I would think that filling through holes in the ceiling may be better, although I would fully line the floor with dust sheets. It's worth baring in mind that you can use the 'Vinyl Hose tubing' through the drilled holes which should make it easier.
Q. I Need to spray the inside of a large fiberglass moulded nose of a fifth wheel motorhome to eliminate condensation. Concerned about how to judge spraying thickness and final thickness can the first coat be oversprayed with a second? How quickly? What preparation? Any advice appreciated Regards Roy A. The finished thickness depends on how much you pull back on the trigger and how quickly or slowly you move your hand/arm around. This is pretty easy to learn and judge after 5 minutes or so. You can spray in layers or go back over old foam with new foam.
Q. How much coverage will I get from the foam kits if I am injecting into a mould or cavity? (slow rise)
A. When calculating how far the foam will go, you need to remember that 1000 litres is equal to 1m3 (cubic metres). The Medium or 180 Sized Tanks should fill approx. 0.5m3 or 17ft3 The Large or 600 Sized Tanks should fill approx. 1.4m3 or 50ft3
Q. Hi there - you've probably been asked this a 1000 times, I'm looking to insulate the internal partition walls in my house for noise and heat purposes. All I want to do is drill in some holes and insert a tube and spray foam into the walls. I've had a look at your website and think I've found the answer to what I have been looking for, am I right? What would you recommend for a house 1400 sq ft? Thanks, Barry A. Yeah your right, well nearly a 1000. This can be done but with careful planning, preparation and small amount of risk. The problem is that you can not see where or what is happening when injecting the foam in. It should hopefully go without a problem, however if you over fill or hit a blockage then the force of the expansion could bulge or worst pop off the plasterboard. To minimize this you can buy/use a stud wall detector to locate the wooden supports and any cross noggins. Have an idea if any old insulation maybe present or anything which might block or restrict the flow of the foam. It is also best to fill in stages to allow the foam to settle and cure. Also the foam when mixed together has a chemical reaction which generates heat, the bigger the injection the bigger the heat. If done correctly then the foam is an excellent insulator and helps to reduce sound transmition.
I would suggest you watch a video I found on an Amercian Webite
Q. Hi guys, ok live in a new council place. now the wall to the left and the wall to the right is all i have to worry about. its a town house. so ceilinds cool floors cool just walls ok. now in the floors will be loft insulation to soke up bass. but what can your stuff do for me if i pumping it into the walls? there is a gap you see betwwen the wall and plaster board so my thoughts are pump it in through holes and it shouldcome out of the holes when done but am i corret in thinking now after a quick read really it will just expand and push on the plaster board?
A. By all means you can inject our foam through holes and into the wall space. This needs to be done with some caution thought because there's a risk that it could bow your plasterboard if you inject too much too quickly. If you take it nice and steady and have holes for the air and the pressure to escape then it is possible. Past customers who have done this have all been happy with the results in deadening sound.
Q. hi there, i am trying to stop the noise from flat above me, we live in a converted 1870 flat and am thinking if your product would be able to spray in the void between my ceiling and their floor boards above without taking my ceiling down? what if i a); drilled small access holes in my cieling to inject throu or b); drilled into the external wall to pass the plastic pipe into and slowly pulled the pipe out?, please help, gary A. You wouldn't believe how often I get asked this question and if there was an easy solution I would be a very rich man. The only correct way to get the foam in-place would be to spray it in-place but nobody wants to take their ceiling down, understandably. It is possible to inject through holes however it is a bit risky, because you can't see what's happening there's a risk that it could either bow your ceiling or push up your neighbour's floor boards. To read more about filling cavity walls or cavities please click on the 'information' link above or the 'Technical Link' in the Browse Box to the left.
Q. What different foam types do you sell?
A. We sell a 'quick cure' spray foamfor walls and ceilings which is a fast setting and a 'slow rise' injecting foam used for mould and cavity fills or where you want the foam to flow first and then expand and set.
Q. What different size kits do you sell?
A. We Have the FP15, FP200 and FP600 If you are looking for an on-going supply or have a large area to cover we also sell the CPDS Spray Foam Machine .
Q. What countries do you sell to?
A. Although this product is available worldwide, we only sell inside the UK and Northen and Southern Ireland. . We have done direct deliveries to addresses in France, Spain and Belgium. We can now cover most of Europe, to obtain a quote for shipping please send an email with your requirements and area code.
Q. If I spray a two-component kit, and the foam does not cure, is soft and spongy, or is crispy to the touch, what went wrong?
A. The kit is probably off-ratio. The components are designed to dispense 1:1 in volume. Make sure kit has been pre heated (24c - 27c) before use Make sure the kit has been thoroughly shaken before use, and that each tank valve is fully open. Change the gun nozzle and resume spraying. Proper chemical temperature is required for optimum dispensing.
Q. What is the preferred application temperature for foam?
A. The chemical temperature should be around 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) for optimal results. Foam will dispense and cure down to 40 degrees F (4 degrees C), but yield and cure can be adversely affected by low temperatures. At the upper end, temperatures should never exceed 120 degrees F (49 degrees C). Higher temperatures adversely impact shelf life. Also, for obvious reasons, it is unsafe to heat pressurized containers beyond the recommended temperatures.
Q. What is the temperature range that cured foam can withstand?
A. Cured two-component foam withstands temperatures between 200 degrees F (-128 degrees C) and +240 degrees F (116 degrees C).
Q. What is the best way to store FROTH-PAK?
A. Store the FROTH-PAK polyurethane foam system at 75°F (24°C), in a clean dry area. DO NOT STORE AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 120°F (49°C). Avoid prolonged storage in direct sunlight or near heat sources. Store a partially used kit with the safety ON (do not tie trigger down) and valves CLOSED. Remove used nozzle, reapply petroleum jelly to face of INSTA-FLO dispenser, and reinsert the used nozzle prior to storing. Do not bleed pressure off hoses during storage.
Q. Can FROTH-PAK be reused?
A. Yes, it can be reused. After using the FROTH-PAK Kit, the tank valves should be left in the on or the open position. Remove the nozzle from the gun and apply petroleum jelly (supplied) into the face of the gun. Reinsert the used nozzle back into the gun to block air from getting inside the gun (the "A" chemical is moisture sensitive). This should make the kit reusable for up to two weeks. When the kit is ready to be reused, remove the old nozzle from the gun and insert a new nozzle. NEVER reuse a "spent" nozzle (that had chemical previously sprayed through it). The chemical will backfire into the gun. This will cause the chemical to set up in the hose, causing the entire gun hose assembly useless. Note: The canisters cannot be refilled. When we make the statement "reusable" we are referring to the reuse of the existing product inside the containers.
Q. Can the canisters be recycled?
A. Yes, the canister can be recycled as long as the canister is de-pressurized and completely emptied of its chemical contents.
Q. What are some troubleshooting tips for Two-part Foam Kits?
A. If your spray pattern becomes noticeably different (eg. cone spray changes to stream), this may be caused by dispensing foam with a used nozzle. Always inspect a nozzle prior to dispensing to make sure you have an unused nozzle mounted in the INSTA-FLO gun dispenser. If the foam or spray pattern does not react properly, replacing the nozzle will usually correct the problem. If the problem persists, remove the nozzle and carefully activate the dispenser (without a nozzle attached) into a waste container. Two chemical streams of approximately equal volume should flow. If streams are unequal, a blockage has occurred. Shut off the tank valve on the side that is flowing properly and activate the trigger full force for 15 seconds. Once the blockage is freed, turn off all tank valves. Use a rag to clean any chemical from the face of the INSTA-FLO dispenser and reapply petroleum jelly. Insert an unused nozzle, open all valves and dispense a test shot into a waste container. After curing check the foam quality. If problems still occur, stop foaming. Turn off chemical tank valves, eject the used nozzle, and release chemical line pressure by activating the dispenser into a waste container. Slowly loosen the hose connections at the tank valves. Clean chemical from the threads and replace with a new INSTA-FLO dispenser/hose assembly. If the replacement of the INSTA-FLO Dispenser/Hose Assembly does not solve the problem, please contact our technical staff at 800-868-1183. To prevent hoses from clogging. If your dispenser has not been used for one week or longer, activate the system for a few seconds by turning on the tank valves and squeezing the trigger fully without a nozzle attached to dispense twin streams into a waste container. This will clear and repressurize the hoses and should be done every week when the system is idle. Reapply petroleum jelly and reinsert used nozzle for storage. If dispensed foam is friable or brittle. The foam is ISO rich, and a partial blockage of the polyol side exists. Clear the blockage from the POLYOL side. If dispensed foam remains soft or mushy, the foam is POLYOL rich and a partial blockage of the ISO side exists. Clear the blockage from the iso side.
Q. Can the Foam Kits be used for marine/flotation applications?
A. Yes, it can. The structure of two-component foam is closed cell, which makes it water resistant. Foam will float in water just the same as a paddleboard or buoy. 1.75 density foam is recommended for marine/flotation applications. It has been tested in-house in accordance with U.S. Coast Guard guidelines for flotation. Caution: When filling a high volume of foam such as in a drum, the foam can get as hot as 2000°F. Wait for the container to cool down before touching the filled drum.
Q. Is it suitable for outdoor use?
A. Polyurethane foams are very sensitive to UV light. Exposure to UV (even indirect sunlight) will cause the foam to darken to an orange or reddish color in a matter of days or weeks. Constant exposure to direct sunlight will eventually cause the foam to break down and crumble apart. The foam must be painted or coated with UV resistant coating if used outdoors. It may be used to fill cavities in trees. As with all outside applications, the foam should be coated to protect it from UV and water exposure.
Q. Can it be used in a mold?
A. Yes it can be used inside an open or enclosed mold. A good general mold release for polyurethane foams is paste wax or Teflon®.
Q. Is it suitable for waterfalls and landscaping applications?
A. Yes. The foam should not be exposed to sunlight (UV) or it will break down over time. Coating or painting the foam will protect it from UV degradation. Typically the foam is not harmful to fish or other animals, but Dow has not done specific testing in this area.
Q. Can it be injected into an existing wall for insulation or soundproofing?
A. It depends. The quick cure foam expands with a lot of force and since the installer cannot see how much foam is injected the expanded foam can "blow out" the wall. FROTH-PAK Slow Rise foam should be used as it expands slower than the standard FROTH-PAK Quick Cure version. It is recommended that foam be applied from the bottom up. "Breather holes" every 12" are recommended to reduce foam pressure. Disclaimer: The Dow Chemical Company has not done any testing to determine suitability of FROTH-PAK for this application and cannot guarantee results. Use FROTH-PAK at your own risk.
Q. Can it be used in pool/spa applications?
A. Foam is commonly used in this application to fill a void under a tub to stop flexing, provide structural support, insulate and reduce vibration. However, installers should be aware that the foam will expand 3 to 5 times and will exert a lot of pressure on the tub. Use a brace to secure the tub/spa or fill the tub with water to add weight to keep the tub in place when foaming.
Q. Can Foam be used to build props/models?
A Yes, Foam is commonly used in the entertainment industry to build props. The foam is paintable and can be cut and shaped when hardened. The bat cave on the set for Batman was constructed using two-component foam.
Q. Is FROTH-PAK flammable?
A. Cured FROTH-PAK foam itself is NOT flammable, but it is combustible. The foam will burn if exposed to sparks or flames, and it will present a fire hazard if exposed to temperatures above 240°F. See Fire Rating Issues. ong>Q. Is FROTH-PAK fire rated? A. No. FROTH-PAK is not a fire rated foam. FROTH-PAK has not been tested for Fireblock/Firestop applications at this time. Fire rating refers to a specific test in which a barrier, such as foam, is used in a fire rated wall or floor assembly that is a component of a non-combustible construction type (e.g. commercial buildings and high-rise buildings more than three stories). The "configuration" is exposed to fire and then a fire hose stream of water. The FROTH-PAK Class I/MSHA is, however, characterized for flame spread and smoke density per ASTM E84/UL 723 at a two-inch thickness. The Class I/MSHA FROTH-PAK is acceptable for use without a thermal barrier (normally 1/2 inch drywall covering) when used around the "rim joist" component of the floor perimeter in basements or crawl spaces. This is now incorporated into the International Building Code. Warning: The foam produced by FROTH-PAK is organic and combustible and may constitute a fire hazard. Do not expose foam to flame or temperatures above 240°F (116°C). Always read FROTH-PAK operating instruction and Safety Data Sheet prior to use.
Q. What is the proper way to dispose of FROTH-PAK?
A. Since local regulations vary, it is best to contact your local waste disposal facility to inquire about disposal of pressurized aerosol cans. Dow Chemical manufacturing facilities are typically not licensed to receive hazardous waste and therefore cannot take back used canisters.
Q. How can I remove foam from my skin?
A. No solvent readily removes cured foam. It is not harmful to skin and will wear off in a few days. The foam can be scraped off using a pumice stone or nail file or use our PU Foam Remover
Q. How can I remove foam from surfaces other than skin?
A. Use our PU Foam Remover. Q. Does foam provide a barrier to rodents and insects? A. Yes. Foam has no nutritional value and thus does not attract rodents or insects. Q. Can fungus or mould grow on foam in damp conditions? A. Foam does not support the growth of mould or fungus.
Q. What is a board foot?
A. A board foot is defined as 12" in length x 12" in width x 1" in thickness of foam coverage. Cubic feet are determined by dividing board feet by 12. This is similar to stacking twelve pieces of 12"x12"x1" foam to create one cubic foot of foam - 12"x12"x12".